The Breakdown

The Scarpa Instinct VS climbing shoes for women are a hoot! I ordered a pair for the new fall climbing season and was very pleased by their performance. The Scarpa Instinct VS shoes are specifically designed to offer women climbers an excellent fit and comfort while climbing.

These shoes are aggressive, meaning the downward angle of the toe allows more force to be applied, ensuring that the well-seasoned climber will keep your feet on tiny footholds and on overhung routes and boulder problems. This aggressive shoe is most ideal for a more experienced climber seeking to get into more difficult styles and movement on the rock wall.

Features

Since these Scarpa Instinct VS shoes are aggressive, the thick rubber toe patch you’ll find on the toe encourages more force to be brought on – and it’s perfect for those clutch toe hooks! All in all, the rubber on the toe allows the amazing woman climber to get her send on and to maximize her edging performance, toe-hooking skills, and application of force on those gnarly overhung routes.

The shoes have straps instead of laces. I am personally a strap person myself. It’s easy to put on and off. The velcro straps are durable and obviously make it simple to adjust the overall tightness of the shoe.

For the record: I failed, not the shoes!

In case you’re curious about the rubber, Vibram® XS Grip 2 makes up both the forefoot and the heel. Essentially, this rubber helps you stick to the rock when you are trying hard for the send. Also, the rubber on the shoe makes it so easy to smear on the wall! It’s important to take a minute to make a note of it because you’ll need to know this later down the line when you go to resole your shoes.

The overall style of the shoe I’m quite fond of. They’re easy to put on and take off – no awkward shoving or cramming if you get the right size! I really am a fan of how the shoe is designed, because it allows flexibility and precision on the wall. The arch bends slightly with you as you move, allowing more flexibility than other types of shoes out on the market. These shoes are very supportive, and highly reliable.

It didn’t take too much time to break them in. Honestly, it took longer for me to feel comfortable climbing in them than it did to break them in. What I mean is this: I always climbed with my one pair of Muiras. They have performed well! So, it just took some getting used to since the Instincts are completely different shoes from the Muiras.

There’s Always a But

Let’s be real. Not one product is absolutely perfect. The Scarpa Instinct VS Women’s is no exception. So let’s start to think about reasons why you might not want to buy these shoes:

  1. Sort of expensive! The cost is sort of hard to swallow. Personally, I thought it was worth it if you’re searching for a durable shoe!
  2. If you’re a slab climber, don’t get these shoes. NOT FOR SLAB.
  3. Really only most ideal for overhung routes and for applying force on smaller footholds on your harder routes.
  4. The lining near the heel loops can rub against your foot (at least in the beginning), making it a tad uncomfortable. After a few climbs, I didn’t notice it anymore.
  5. The tongue tab likes to tuck itself into the shoe while you’re putting it on, which can be a little annoying at times. Especially when all you wanna do is send!
Kung Fu Grip, Rumbling Bald

Perfect Bouldering Companions

I usually pull out these bad boys while bouldering. I much prefer these during my bouldering sessions as opposed to my rope climbing sessions. My rope climbing shoes are still my good old La Sportiva Muira Women’s.

I stay away from slab, so they’re comfortable and high-performing when I wear them. They do such a great job with heel-hooks, smearing, edging, and toe-hooks! They have officially become my designated bouldering shoes!

Start the Send Train!

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Bummer how you can’t see them, but I’m wearing them for my send on A Face in the Crowd (v7)!

With some try hard, focus, motivation, and the right shoes on your feet, you’re bound to start the send train on your projects! The Scarpa Instinct VS shoes are my go-to shoes for sending my hardest boulder problems!

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